TELEDRONE

POC #18

The curvature of the monoski can be adjusted in any of three ways:

(a) by adjusting the stiffness along its length by artificial means

(b) a wedge at the prow which adjusts the angle of projection

I am going for the easiest option of the three and altering the length of the craft as it appears currently. The deck is 24" wide and 26" long and I want the overall length to be around two and a half times the length of the deck.

To enable this I reduce the length of the laterals to 67" or 1700mm and the reason this measure is two inches (or 50mm) over is that these will be lost to the curvature of the prow.

POC #17

Bolt the laterals to the forward spar prior to attaching it to the deck.

POC #16

Use a laser level or ~ as here ~ a joint in the floor to tee up the laterals.

POC #15

Affix the end of each lateral to the rearmost spar using the means of your choice.

POC #14

Rivet or screw the rear spar in place, depending on whatever floats your boat.

POC #13

Here's what I mean... 3mm holes drilled 30mm apart through the spar to secure our motor, of whichever size, without special brackets that hobby shops will cane you for. And to save on loctite I've used a strip of sellotape instead because we're not building Boeings here (Ed. maybe they do?).

POC #12

It's time to fit the motor, and to do this I use a technique that worked well enough on the multi-rotors that I've designed and built in the past. We'll be using just two of the four bolt-holes on the motor because (a) it's sufficient and (b) it leaves two spare if you strip the threads on these two, which is easily done given the diminutive size of the bolts. Normally these are tiny, and another advantage of driving them through the forward spar is that at least they've got a longer shank (3 x 30mm seen here).

The drive-shaft protrudes on this poorly-designed motor so I'll be using a couple of washers to lift it clear of the spar.