In the credits at the close of the Netflix series on the bombing of Panam flight 103, the man jailed for arranging for a bomb to be placed on board appears at the steps of an Air Afriqiyah airliner upon his eventual return to Libya. Reader, I flew for that airline.
I was first aware of it as an instructor in the simulator nearby London Gatwick, this airline with number ‘9’ scattered around the tail-fin, ostensibly to celebrate the Sirte declaration of 09-09-2009. The national carrier, Libyan Arab Airlines was already to be banned from European airspace, as this one would be too ~ unless operated by a European outfit.
Accordingly I traveled to Dublin for an assessment as a captain on its fleet of Airbus 320s, which were to be operated by Irish company ASL. Aircraft were re-registered to suit, and I would be collected by these means from Gatwick and flown to Tripoli in Libya, where an airfield south of town that had been built during WW2 formed the nation’s principal hub.
We were to be accommodated in a hotel in the centre, whose uppermost floors were apparently occupied by the local militia or mafia, depending on your viewpoint, who provided protection in return. I was fairly clean-cut and well-built at the time, and in the bar you’d be clocked by fairly clean-cut and well-built characters who worked for either UK or US special forces or contractors ~ and figured you might too.
My room was on an upper floor and on hearing how occasionally there’d be people running around the corridors with AK-47s, I figured out a means of escape over the roof-tops. I had canvassed my elder brother, also an airline captain, for any advice he had on personal security and he wrote 'Tell them you're the Popular Front of Judea, not the Judean People's Front'.
The weather was spectacular, as was the food, catered for by Philippine staff who were treated with altogether less respect by the locals than we. In the evening this would be served at tables alongside the pool, the peace within the walled compound only disturbed by the occasional arrival of a US transport aircraft: what they were doing there we shall only discover when the action movie is eventually released.
The mini-bus driver was a Chelsea supporter, and we’d stop by housing estates to collect crew, where young men menaced us to some extent, just by their presence. I cracked a joke with one and he looked at me like he'd shoot me there and then on a bad day, which you get used to if you’re from Liverpool. On the way between town and airport we’d pass Gaddafi’s compound, which had been hit at night by countless cruise missiles. I asked if this had been noisy, my interlocutor looking askance at me as you might an idiot; the problem being nowadays. he went on, instead of only one Gaddafi to worry about, now they had three dozen.
We'd also pass a torture centre housed in a 1960s concrete construction of the sort Le Corbusier might have used for a French church, say. One of a pair, it was used to keep the citizenry in line. Otherwise besides the souk and an ancient fort, the town looked much as it had when an Italian colony, its parks and arcades quite stylish. The road to the airport had palm trees along its length down the central reservation and one evening one was ablaze and going up like a firework, which I guessed was what you'd expect from a trunk-full of resin.
At some stage the word went out as it once did in places like Northern Ireland that there was to be a shoot-out between rival gangs, and so we were asked to ship the aircraft to Misratah in advance of the much-anticipated showdown at the airport. At the national airline LAA left their aircraft in situ, including wide-body A330s as well as A320s, as they figured it was all talk. It wasn’t, and some billion dollars of flying real-estate went up in smoke. We had left in a hurry prior, which was quite exciting because it was possibly the only time I had jumped in an airliner to fly it visually at low level in vaguely the right direction and armed principally with Jeppesen's map.
We were not unduly disappointed to have left, apart from missing the pool and free lobster and steak, because the Romanian captain among has had been shot at from time to time whilst on the approach. It was unsurprising as the markets were awash with arms and even our young steward had a collection like you’d expect in World of Warfare. The breakfast buffet had been a thing to behold, and all of this free on top of our wages: although a tall lady, a politician and rights campaigner that I recall at the breakfasts, would soon afterward be shot dead to leave a husband and children.
The female cabin crew were largely from Tunisia next door, as they considered that women in Libya ought not to work and especially so with strange men, and moreso men as strange as I. Not long after we left too a Russian 737 crew in a nearby hotel were all shot dead, pilot and stewardesses, because the gunmen had not found who it was they were looking for and shot these people sat in the lobby instead, for they looked suitably Western enough for it to have been worthwhile.
During all of this a group of mechanics and pilots, probably at my insistence, took a bus to Sirte (the place of the declaration) where Gaddafi had come to a grisly end in a concrete sewer, as I recall, with a length of piping up his bottom. The walls were pock-marked throughout with bullet- and shell-holes, and Scud rocket-launchers sat on the streets where they'd been abandoned, so that we were able to sit in them to shout orders at each other in a Russian accent. There was a derelict food-market I left myself into, and out back a pair of tanks that had been targeted by laser-guided bombs... holes in the roof, turrets blown clean off with the pressure and dead sheep in each for whatever reason.
One day though we were in the descent from 35,000 feet and overhead Malta, and my co-pilot was a Libyan dual-national from Manchester; a lovely guy who I suspect will have known the Arena bomber; because there cannot be all that many Libyans in Manchester. By this stage a militia had taken over the tower in Tripoli, which was responsible for our initial descent into the Libyan airspace. Amidst instructions were people in the background shouting at him in Arabic, I doing the flying and he on the radio.
I asked him what the problem was and he relayed their insistence that we land at the new airport at Tripoli instead of our new home at Misratah. This was the military base the US transports had been using, recently pressed into action after the shoot-out at the main airport had taken out the terminal besides the national fleet.
They told him he'd be viewed as a traitor, and sounded quite cross about it so I summoned the senior to ask her if the passengers minded going to Tripoli instead. She came back and said they did mind, as half of them suspected they'd be shot on arrival. This was not a scenario we had practised during descents at British Midland in the simulator, so I said 'Fuck’ and handed the co-pilot control and got busy on a keyboard you could use to message Operations back in Dublin.
Normally it didn’t work, but happily it did and in response to my curt IF WE LAND IN TRIPOLI WE’RE ALL GOING TO DIE they suggested diverting to another country and so a man who had been beginning to imagine himself in an orange jump-suit was able to execute a right turn to Djerba, a holiday resort in Tunisia, as we scrambled among paper approach plates for a suitable radio frequency. I even managed to fit in a passenger address along the lines of, 'Ladies and Gentlemen and dear children, it's your lucky day, welcome to Tunisia and we’ll arrange the buses.' I'm not sure we did, likely being advised to leave the fuckers as anyone who has flown Ryanair could guess.
On balance, good to find ourselves among holidaymakers as unexpected guests at the hotel where the cocktails must have tasted extra special. I had wanted to visit one of the most outstanding Roman remains along the coast but it was considered too dangerous: an expat and girlfriend having been shot whilst picnicking at the sea side in a place where that was not altogether the ideal pastime. Problem being the ground-crew remained in Misratah, whilst we enjoyed cocktails at the seaside.
What to do? I recall we may have re-positioned to the airfield non-radio, memory is hazy, but I did suggest to the Ops department that as we were the only ones there we could load up engines running and hot-tail it at night to Malta at 500 feet, balls out. There were few if any fighter-jets still in use as I recall, the country effectively lapsing into the sort of city-states familiar from medieval Italy. If nothing else it'd give me the chance of trying to look like Tom Cruise and saying things like 'So let's get this baby off the ground...'.
In the event they would contract one of those dodgy contractors out in the Middle East that comprise ex-special forces security people still hooked on the adrenaline and the foreign travel, beside the lucre. They were piled into a mini-bus, instructed to shut the fuck up, and as they approached each tribal check-point they'd have a driver who'd be familiar to his mates at the barrier. Driver's would be swapped out and picked up at successive points along the route to Tunisia, where I like to think the last set of sentries asked for papers please in a German accent like they would on The Great Escape.
All in all though I left Libya with a love of Libyans, and you know those robes that Gaddafi wore when he sat in his tent? I got one for my son, who must have been about three at the time, and we have it to this day. It's from Misratah, but I'd have been happy with one from anywhere.
To be continued.
| What's left of airliners on the end of RPGs |







